When we think of Indian royalty, the sprawling forts and stunning palaces of Rajasthan or Uttar Pradesh come to mind. However, Patiala, a former princely state of India, boasts of interesting characters from history and a larger-than-life spirit. Today, all of that is masked by colour, grandeur, and flamboyance, but if you take some time to peel away the layers of the city, it is a great place to explore Punjab’s past.
My first thought upon entering the city was how relatively well-organized and charming it was. Well-laid out with wide roads; and on them, drivers that weren’t in a massive hurry. Stop anywhere and you’ll find plenty of cafes and street food and bazaar nearby. This is a city with historic monuments sprinkled around in good measure, yet hidden in plain sight. It is a city where the Sikh faith blossomed and battles were fought for over 40 years. But all of these is shadowed by the famous ‘Patiala Peg,’ for which the city has become synonymous with.
Things to see in Patiala
Depending on what your interests are, Patiala can offer you things to do for a day or two. In terms of monuments, many are under maintenance and they have been that way for years, so the entire monument/fort/palace grounds are not open to the public – or simply not open at all. A tip I could provide is to look up the location on Google Maps and check out the most recent reviews. You will either find people talking about how beautiful the monument is (in which case, go visit) or annoyed that they visited and it was closed (in which case, head somewhere else). Don’t rely on listicles on popular websites for this information, as they just regurgitate existing information and the facts are lost in it all.
Qila Mubarak – GPS took us through a choc-a-bloc market, through lanes that got narrower with every turn. On either side, vendors sat selling phulkari shawls, plastic, and steel containers. No matter where we tried to park, someone came and told us to move our vehicle, and eventually, we parked quite far away and walked back through the market. The entry to this majestic fort in Patiala is almost swallowed by the market and unless you want to find it, there’s a good chance you’d miss it entirely. The fort, built by the first maharaja of Patiala, Baba Ala Singh in 1763 must have looked surreal in its prime, but it has been sadly ignored and allowed to deteriorate before being restored (although much more could be done). If you love architecture, you’ll enjoy walking around admiring Mughal and Rajasthani architectural styles. Sadly we were only allowed to admire the structure from the courtyard.
Sheesh Mahal – Literally translating to ‘Palace of Mirrors,’ the Sheesh Mahal is said to be immensely beautiful and holds stunning art pieces inside. To our bad luck, this palace in Patiala was also under renovation and we made do with taking a walk around the grounds in front of it, admiring the statues of the Indian kings and British nobles. Built in 1847, this palace used to be the residence of the maharajas, and I read that painters from Rajasthan and Kangra painted floral designs that depict various stories, on the walls and ceilings. The palace also has a museum that displays over 3000 medals won/collected by the maharajas from the 12th-20th centuries, as well as old coins.
Shahi Samadhan – The resting place of the royal family of Patiala, Shahi Samadhan is composed of the main building which houses the memorial of Baba Ala Singh – the founder of Patiala, and behind it, the cenotaphs of other members of the royal family. The place is titled ‘The Heritage Walk’ on Google Maps, and if you don’t have time to visit, you can consider skipping it. It doesn’t seem to be popular as it was fairly deserted (except for a security guard). It is a pretty place, though.
Other things to see in Patiala include Moti Bagh Palace (we skipped it since Google Maps took us round in circles and none of the people we asked gave proper directions). We also skipped the Kali Devi Mandir, Baradari Garden, Patiala Zoo, and a lake – all of which were quite generic. I mean, a garden is a garden. Interestingly, most articles on things to do in Patiala feature a shopping mall – so it’s more than likely that online listicles feature places just to add bulk to their articles. Use your discretion and your time wisely.
Where to stay in Patiala
Patiala, unlike Ferozepur, has plenty of comfortable hotels to choose from, at varying price points.
AK Suites – A no-frills hotel that doesn’t have much to boast of, but is clean and somewhat comfortable. If you require amenities like laundry and a restaurant, look elsewhere. What was a little unsettling to me was that the room did not have any windows, so I felt extremely claustrophobic at night and had no way to gauge the time with natural light during the day. I didn’t realize how cramped the room was when I checked in as I just dumped my bags and headed out for the day. On my second night, I slept with the lights on, which was better since I didn’t keep waking up confused and thinking I’d slept through half the morning. There are no toiletries provided and only one towel. I stayed here for 2 nights as it was affordable and I wanted to splurge on my next stay. Nevertheless, the room was spotless and comfortable, and the bed + washroom was very clean too.
Baradari Palace – A heritage hotel in Patiala, Baradari Palace is where you should book your stay if you like experiential travel and can factor it into your budget. Named after the 12-door pavillon (bara = twelve, dari + door), this hotel is built in Sikh-Mughal style and looks gorgeous when lit up at night. This grand hotel which was once a modest palace has beautifully maintained rooms, each one named after a member of royalty. The bathrooms were massive, and like the bedrooms, they were tastefully done up. The food is excellent, however, service at breakfast needs drastic improvement. Grab a Patiala Peg in the city it was invented in (the menu of Peg, the bar, tells the tale of how it came to be), take a walk on the manicured lawns, admire old works of art, and walk up beautiful wooden staircases – a taste of royal life awaits!
Where to eat in Patiala
Out of my 3 days in Patiala, I spent 2 mornings working out of Bartista cafes since I didn’t want to stay in my claustrophobic room. I also spent an evening eating street food for dinner at a local market along New Lella Bhavan Market Road. From dosas to rolls and momos to chaat, there was a variety of street food and restaurants along the road to satiate any craving. After that, I ended with dessert – a donut at Super Donuts across the road. One of the places I went out of my way to visit was Patiala Shahi Lassi, a small but clean, cozy place serving an extensive array of – you guessed it – lassi! From the weird to the interesting, there are many flavours to pique your interest, but I opted for ‘sweet with double malai’ and I’m still working to burn those calories.
Lastly, Nagpal Pure Veg Restaurant was a place I stopped at for Chole Kulche. Now, there are many, many Nagpal Restaurants and I couldn’t tell you which one I went to if I tried. But if it helps, it was right after I visited Shahi Samadhan (look up ‘Heritage Walk’ on Google Maps), so it is in the vicinity. Lastly, the restaurant at Baradari Palace is open for walk-in diners and I highly suggest you dine here at least once.
Best time to visit Patiala
Like most places in Punjab, the best time to visit is during the winter (between November to February). While the mornings and nights get chilly, it is pleasant during the day for a bit of sightseeing.
Since Patiala is not on everyone’s bucket list, you may like to read my blog posts on Amritsar, Ferozepur, Ludhiana, Chandigarh, Kila Raipur, or Anandpur Sahib. For more travel inspo, catch. me on Facebook and Instagram.
