I couldn’t resist the allure of Kerala for long, so I made my way back to this breathtaking part of South India just 6 months after my last trip. Previously, I sauntered through Fort Kochi, Ernakulam, and Munnar. This time, I was ready to dive into Thiruvananthapuram, also known as Trivandrum, the capital city of God’s own country. I also decided to visit Kovalam, Varkala, and Kochi (again), just to soak up more of the beauty and charm that this region exudes. And to tick some more things off my bucket list!
Welcome to Thiruvananthapuram
Trivandrum’s location by the sea has long been its claim to fame. Centuries ago, European sea-farers were drawn to this coastal city, turning it into a bustling trading post for spices and ivory. Even today, the influence of those early explorers can be felt in the city’s architecture and cultural tapestry.
The first things that caught my eye in Trivandrum were the vibrant street art adorning the walls of public spaces, and the abundance of greenery. Nice! On the other hand, I noticed that the roads were undergoing some serious construction work. It seemed like everywhere I turned, there were signs of development and improvement. Not too different from Goa, really. But despite the mess, there was a certain calmness in the air, a lack of hurry that I found refreshing. It was a stark contrast to other bustling capital cities I’ve experienced.
What also set this city apart from other places in Kerala that I’d been to was the captivating blend of modernity and traditional Kerala culture. Trivandrum, being a commercial hub, a research and educational center, and a cultural hotspot, effortlessly combines the old and the new. It’s a city that embraces progress while still holding onto its rich heritage.
Where I stayed in Trivandrum
While driving around Trivandrum, I couldn’t help but notice how compact it was. Everything seemed to be just a short drive away, making it incredibly convenient for exploring. And let me tell you, I lucked out when it came to finding the perfect place to stay – SFS Homebridge, Vazhuthacaud. SFS properties are scattered throughout Trivandrum, and I chose this particular one based on a friend’s recommendation. Little did I know that it would exceed all my expectations. It was more than just a hotel. They called it a ‘hotel apartment’ – and boy, did it live up to that name.
From the moment I stepped inside, I was welcomed by a sense of comfort. The amenities were exceptional. There was a restaurant in the building, and the convenience of having laundry services available meant that I didn’t have to worry about a pile of dirty clothes ruining my vacation vibes. And the icing on the cake? A kitchenette in the room. Yes, you heard that right. I had the freedom to heat a quick snack, brew some coffee right in my own space, and even stow away leftover food in my fridge for a snack later. To my surprise, the room even had 1.5 bathrooms.
If you find yourself heading to Trivandrum, I highly recommend checking out SFS Homebridge or any of their other properties scattered across the city. It’s the perfect base for your adventures.
Where I ate in Trivandrum
Being a part of Culinary Culture, I have the best food-loving friends from around the country to rely on. In Trivandrum, I counted on the expertise of my pal Anjana Gopakumar (@anjanagopakumar_) who, apart from being a well-respected food blogger, is one of the team members behind Trivandrum’s best food discovery Instagram page – Eat At Trivandrum (@eat_at_tvm). If you’re going to Trivandrum, I highly suggest you check them out. Coming to the places I dined at in the city:
The Olive Restaurant
This was the first Thiruvananthapuram restaurant I visited, and it stands out for its inviting ambiance, one of the biggest menus, and amazing food. Depending on who you’re dining with and the time of day, you can choose to sit indoors, outside in little wooden cabanas, or at Windjammer – a premium dining space on the property. If you’re ever wondering what to order here, get everything I did (watch the reel below) – and don’t miss the Hamor Kandhari Tava – a creamy and spicy fish preparation that was simply sublime, especially when paired with parottas. The Beef Ularthiyathu with appams and Ilaneer (tender coconut) dessert were knockouts!
High Dive at O by Tamara
When in a new place, I usually spend the evenings driving around and getting the feel of the place, checking out local events, or staying in and catching up on work. But since I had the weekend in Trivandrum, I figured I might as well do something new and see what the nightlife scene is like. I popped into High Dive, a cool little sports bar at O by Tamara. Although no matches were going on that day, I could tell that this would be a high-energy spot to hang out when there was one! The food wasn’t what I’d expect at a sports bar, but OMG it was delicious. I’m still getting a feel of real Kerala food, so jumping a step ahead to try fusion food was fun.
Azad Bakery Factory
I found quite a lot of stores by this brand around the city, but the one I went to was at Vazhuthacaud. I swear, I’ve never seen a store that was packed wall to wall with a hundred different types of snacks. For someone like me who is always munching, this is paradise. We just stopped here for a light breakfast of some of their puffs which were amazing – especially the banana puff. Keralites do love their bananas!
Pro Tip – Take back packaged items from here as souvenirs from Trivandrum for your friends and family back home.
GP Hotel & Tea Shop
Don’t ask me why I went here – I was just so overwhelmed with the food options in Trivandrum that I picked it out at random from the Eat at Trivandrum Instagram page. We stopped here for, what was to be a snack, but ended up being lunch as we were so full with just the Pazhampoli, Beef Fry and some coffee. It’s a no-frills place and it was a house full with locals. I would have loved to try more food, but the menu was in Malayalam and no one spoke English.
Oh, I also stopped at this random tea stall called Mari Karthik Tea Stall and Bakery – that coffee was excellent! I can’t seem to find the spot on Google.
Things to do in Trivandrum
I was told there was not much to see in Trivandrum – and that was indeed true. Apart from a couple of well-known monuments, it was a regular Indian city – with malls, commercial centers, parks, and more.
Visit the Padmanabhaswamy temple
Mumbai has the Gateway of India, Kolkata has the Victoria Memorial, and Trivandrum has the Padmanabhaswamy temple, a magnificent golden temple that is considered one of the richest shrines in the world. As a non-Hindu, I wasn’t allowed to enter the temple, but just being in its presence was awe-inspiring. Why? I’m getting to it!
What fascinated me more than the temple itself was the fact that a few years ago, a mind-boggling treasure trove was discovered in the temple’s secret chambers. Can you imagine? Sacks of diamonds, hundreds of kilograms of gold, antiques, jewels, silver, and even a stunning golden image of Lord Vishnu adorned with precious stones were found. The estimated value of these treasures ranges from a staggering $40 to $200 billion. Standing before this temple, knowing its incredible history and wealth, was excitement enough for me – especially knowing that 1 out of the 6 vaults discovered is yet to be opened. It’s the stuff you read about in novels!
The buzz of white-and-gold sari-clad women, and mundu-clad men wasn’t too bad on the outside, but I can’t say what it’s like on the inside. If you’d like to visit, It is open for viewing from 3:30 – 7:20 AM, 8:30 AM – 12 noon, and then from 5:30 PM to 7:20 PM. The entry is free, but if you want to opt for a ‘special darshan’ where you skip all the queues, you can do so upon paying a fee. If you’re driving yourself here, remember to look for the Padmanabaswamy Temple parking, park your vehicle and walk to the temple. You will not find parking on the road outside as it is the market road. We found parking under a flyover nearby at Rs. 10.
Kovalam Beach
Another must-visit spot in Trivandrum is Kovalam Beach, located just a short distance away – 16 km to be exact. As I made my way through the maze of pathways lined with hotels, I couldn’t help but feel like I was in Manali, but with palm trees and sea breeze. The beach itself was a lively hub, filled with tourists from all over the world. Eateries and shopping stalls fringed the promenade and there were also spice stalls, ayurvedic massages, jewelry stores and what have you. What I loved seeing was that no hawkers or shacks were actually on the beach – which meant that the beach was extremely clean. Except for a few beach beds, the beach had nothing but people enjoying the sunset, sand, and ocean in peace. I wish I could say the same for my home state of Goa.
Come sunset and the staff of restaurants come on the pavement to coax patrons to enter. One even tried a bit of emotional blackmail, which was quite hilarious. When I passed by his restaurant and let him know that I was going off for a stroll and would maybe return later, he kept saying “I trust you, I believe in you, I’ll save you a seat with a view.” No, I didn’t return.
The Vizhinjam Lighthouse, the tallest lighthouse in Kerala stands tall in the distance and is a beautiful sight to behold. Surrounded by coconut palms and perched on a hillock, it was like it was plucked straight out of a scene from those Enid Blyton books we used to read as kids.
Other sights to see in Trivandrum
With just 2 days in Thiruvananthapuram, that too, with half of that time spent working, my experiences were limited. One of the places on my list for next time is the Puttan Malika Palace, known for its stunning Kerala architecture and royal heirlooms. I’m a self-proclaimed architecture enthusiast, so missing out on this opportunity on this trip was a bit disappointing. Similarly, I had hoped to visit the Napier Museum to learn more about the Indo-Saracenic style, but it just didn’t work out.
I must admit, the heat in Kerala was quite intense. It felt even hotter than Goa, and that’s saying something! So, I had to be strategic with my sightseeing and avoid the scorching afternoons. This did limit my exploration time, but I still managed to squeeze in some wonderful experiences. One recommendation I received was to visit the Chitra art gallery, which is part of the same museum complex. It is said to house some of the finest art collections in Trivandrum. Again, that’s on the list for my next visit.
Shopping in Trivandrum
Lastly, let’s talk about shopping. Despite many blogs suggesting a visit to the Chalai Bazaar, I found it to be quite similar to other markets in the country. Sure, it’s been around for 200 years and spans a good 2 kilometers, but if unless you’re a local or want to buy clothes, vegetables, toys, and jewelry, you might not find it worth a visit. Nevertheless, you will walk by it on the way to the Padmanabhaswamy Temple. If you have an extra couple of days in Trivandrum, spend some time here to observe local life.
All in all, my trip to Trivandrum was a whirlwind of incredible sights, but not too many experiences. I left with a desire to return and explore more, do more, and eat more. The heat may have been intense, but Trivandrum’s charm and beauty made it all worth it. If you’ve got any recommendations on things to do in Thiruvananthapuram, drop me a comment below.
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