They say Hampi is so small, you can see it all in a day, maybe two. I don’t agree. Hampi is unreal, bewitching and architecturally resplendent. Giant sun-baked boulders perch precariously over each other and stretch over miles of terrain with palm trees that look tiny in comparison dotted in between. Rice fields and banana plantations along tiny roads, a perfect azure sky peppered with white clouds make it look postcard perfect.
Toy-like motorcycles slowly puff along, looking misplaced in this “forlorn ruin” setting that still glimmers through the harsh destruction of time. Hampi was once a land of temples and more temples. It’s easy to get transported to the days of yore and begin imagining how things must have been then.
Have you heard of the Hindu epic Ramayana? Hampi is believed to be where most of it happened. The ruins that date back to the first century was once the buzzing ancient capital of the Vijayanagra dynasty – a strategic spot, considering that three sides hold unscaleable hills and the fourth, the treacherous Tungabudra river. Obviously, this is a UNESCO world heritage site!
There are many water bodies in Hampi – a river, a reservoir and a lake with water so blue you can’t resist jumping in. Which is probably why there are so many warnings forbidding people to do so because of crocodiles. Since most of these areas are enclosed, it doesn’t make sense for crocodiles to live there, and local waiters we made friends with told us there weren’t any. It’s just there to scare people off so that the water remains clean and accidents are prevented
I loved these dainty boats. One can go for a ride in them in groups of 6 or 8 for Rs. 200/- per person.
WHERE TO STAY:
Hampi is not the place to go to if you want luxury. Most of the accommodation is in thatched huts – so you may need to forget modesty and inhibitions and just change your clothes or bathe lightning fast. Not that anyone cares to peep into other huts. But it embodies simple, basic living with no modern amenities, including mobile network. Pretty refreshing, if you ask me!
I stayed at Whispering Rocks at Sanapur which is decent. These huts are relatively comfortable as compared to the other options available – cemented rooms and caves – yes, caves. I’ve heard good things about Gopi Huts and Mowgli Huts so you may want to check those out because they offer great views of the rice fields! Accommodation in most places ranges between Rs. 500-800/- per day for two people, while caves cost Rs. 4000/- and can accommodate around 8 people. Go figure!
One can even choose to stay at Hospet, which is around 13 kms from Hampi. Sanapur is another option that’s 4-5 kms from Hampi and involves a 2 minute boat ride across the river. Hampi itself has a few lodges but being a temple town, no alcohol is served.
WHERE TO EAT :
The city has the cutest, most colourful cafes that are surrounded by trees and chirping birds.. Surprisingly, the food isn’t basic at all. You have a range of Lebanese food, Mughlai, South Indian, Continental and even Italian Fare. There are so many options that you never have to eat at the same place twice.
What I loved most about them was the hippie-like vibe in every place. Low marble tables and mattresses on the floor to sit/sleep on eating makes you instantly feel like you’re on holiday. Trippy music in unknown languages, psychedelic lamps, a casual ambiance with cool breeze – blissful!
That reminds me… everywhere you go, you’ll find people smoking up or trying to sell you weed, including the person who rows the boat! It’s pretty strange the way people openly deal and smoke. Hmm….
So that’s pretty much it about the cooler side of the river. In my next post, I’ll talk about what there is to see and do on the other side of the boat ride. Stay tuned!