Edit – This restaurant has permanently closed.
Coming across Mumbai’s first and possibly, only Andhra eating joint, Gonguura happened by pure chance. I was catching up with a friend over coffee and we had so much to talk about that it lasted until dinner time. And you know what cafe food is like… ugh!
The restaurant is named after Gonguura, a leaf essential to preparing Andhra cuisine. Located just off Juhu-Versova Link road in Andheri, from the outside, it looks so ordinary that you may pass right by it without a second glance.The interiors are simple but well lit with around 7-8 tables and decor limited to traditional paintings on the wall. We were the only two customers present that evening, but apparently on weekends, the wait for a table lasts anywhere from an hour to three.
The pure-vegetarian menu is short, and would probably amount to one page of what you would find in any given south Indian eatery. But what sets it apart is that you won’t find idli, vadas and uttapam as the centre of attraction. Instead, Gonguura features dishes that are practically unknown, such as Punugulu (a tea time snack), Pesarattu (moong bean dosa) and Pulihora (Sour rice)
I ordered the Special Thali… because that’s the only way to sample as much of Andhra cuisine as possible! Best decision of the day! It came with two dry vegetables – crispy spiced tendli with coconut shavings that had not a drop of excess oil in the bowl. And the second, my favourite– the dry brinjal tempered with curry leaves and mustard seeds. I’d go back again just for a bowl full of it!
One of the gravies was rich ladyfinger curry which added a touch of sweetness to the thali. Pulusu or green gram gravy is a staple in Andhra Pradesh and was the second. It was melt in your mouth good and so healthy – just like all comfort food should be. That with rotis and home made curd really hit the spot.
I really can’t fault any of it! The tamarind rice was delicious with peanuts and fried dal adding texture. The sambar was simply tantalizing – and came without radish and drumsticks in it, thank God! The Dal was excellent, the papads were fried, but oil-free (weirdly awesome!) and the chutney + stuffed Kashmiri chilli pickle were amazing accompaniments.
My friend, who was engrossed with his Pappu Annan (Dal and palak Gravy, sambar and rice) ate in silence, relishing every morsel. He suggested that I eat the traditional way – by emptying the bowl of ghee over the rice, sprinkling “gun powder” on top and sampling it with a spoonful of every gravy. While it’s not something I would usually do, it was worth a try. I’ve probably said it before but it was deeeelicious!
I highly recommend the Gonguura special thali! Not only is it unlimited in terms of servings, but it’s super filling, without making one feel sick and sluggish afterwards. Plus, it’s easy on the wallet! The only disappointment was the dessert. For me, that HAS to be show-stopping good, and the lone laddu was a let-down.
The service was quick and homely. I wanted to take a picture of a decorative bull that was framed on a wall, and they actually switched off all the lights so that I could get a good shot, without having the reflection glaring back. Although the owner wasn’t present, I hear she is an IIM- Lucknow pass-out. The food has her unique touch to it, and it tastes anything but commercial or business-like, and that’s what makes it special. With no advertisements or PR, it’s pure word of mouth that keeps patrons going back time and again.
All in all, it’s the closest I’ve come to home-made cooking in a restaurant and I can’t wait to sample the rest of the menu.
Gonguura, I’ll be back!
