Ramadan is a month-long festival celebrated by Muslims. People observe a fast during the day, refraining from eating and drinking, while spending time in prayer and abstinence. Before the sun rises, Muslims consume a meal called Suhoor to get them through the day-long fast. At sundown, the fast is broken with a lavish meal called ‘Iftaar.’ At Iftaar, friends and family come together every evening to partake in this high-protein meal that includes fruits, kebabs, biryani, haleem, and desserts like Malpua, Shahi Tukda – and so much more.
Ramadan Food Walk in Hyderabad
We all know how food transcends boundaries and religions, and so foodies set off on food trails around the country, to sample the flavours of Ramadan. From Mumbai’s Mohammad Ali Road to Bangalore’s Mosque Road in Frazer Town, popular food trails are abuzz with locals and tourists making their way through spider-web-like lanes, stopping at stall after stall to savour festive delicacies, well into the dead of night.
Novotel Hyderabad Airport, a luxury resort in Hyderabad organized a culinary tour in the Old City, taking me to some of Hyderabad’s oldest and most famous eateries to try select dishes that reflect the spirit of Ramadan here. As we set off on our journey, we were briefed on the stops we would take and our route. As it was my first visit to Hyderabad, the route that was being told to me obviously made no difference, and I was glad I just had to concern myself with eating, while everything else was planned and taken care of!
Nimrah Bakery
Our first stop! A haven for all kinds of biscuits to be paired with milky Irani chai, Nimrah Bakery is one of the must-visit spots in Hyderabad, especially if you are around the Charminar Area. The range of fresh biscuits laid in front of me kept me reaching for ‘one more’ every few minutes.
Nibbling on their heavenly Osmania biscuits, Kopra Biscuits (coconut biscuits), Karachi biscuits, and more while sipping chai and watching the bustling bazaar activities unfold in front of the majestic Hyderabad monument is an experience in itself. The light and delicate puff pastries are to die for! Do try them and take home a box of Osmania biscuits as a souvenir.
Milan Juice Centre
Right opposite Nimrah Bakery is Milan Juice Centre – and their fresh juices, milkshakes and yogurts are out-of-the-world! Using fine ingredients and fresh fruit, each of their offerings is better than the next. If you go in a group, order different things because every item is too rich and heavy to finish alone – and you will want a spoonful of everything they have to offer. I can almost taste their Mulberry (Shahtoot) Yogurt and Fig (Anjeer) shake – it is definitely in my list of Top 3 spots!
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Akbar Fast Food
A stone’s throw away from Charminar, Akbar Fast Food, a very old-looking establishment, is a popular choice for Chicken 65. If you were to ask me why Chicken 65 is a popular Ramadan food in Hyderabad, I wouldn’t know what to tell you. But so many people flock to this eatery for this dish, that a Ramadan Food Walk wouldn’t be complete without stopping here. Personally, I found the chicken totally bland and incredibly oily. However, the A/C section of this restaurant offers a wonderful view of a mosque – and that’s what made it worth the stop for me.
Pista House
World-renowned Pista House is regarded as one of the best places to eat in Hyderabad and their Haleem is legendary. Novotel Hyderabad Airport already took us to see the behind-the-scenes making of Haleem in the open kitchen earlier in the day. And since the proof of the pudding is in the taste, here we were, at one of their several outlets. We made our way to the a table covered with a red, sticky plastic table cloth and before long, plastic bowls full of Haleem were placed in front of us.
While brown meaty paste swimming in oil did look unappetizing, I could see why this dish was a much-loved one. Haleem is a meaty porridge and is essentially mutton cooked with black rice, wheat, lentils and spices for over 12 hours until it is the consistency of mild, stringy gloop. It had ‘comfort food’ written all over it! No wonder it is shipped all over the world!
Matwale Doodh Ghar
Located right next door to Pista House, Matwale Doodh Ghar, a hole-in-the-wall shop was our next stop. It serves lassi, falooda and other milky concoctions that can be extremely tempting to someone braving the Hyderabad heat for food. Was it the best lassi in Hyderabad? I’m not quite sure, because it didn’t come close to the best lassi I’ve ever had. The synthetic strawberry flavour and watery consistency didn’t impress, but I will give it due credit for quenching my thirst.
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Shadab
A short drive away from Charminar is Shadab, a garishly lit-up restaurant with a huge neon sign. It is known to serve the best biryani in Hyderabad and is a must-visit when in the city. Since it was packed beyond capacity when we visited, we parcelled a portion of it along with Qurbani ka Meetha. This was to take back to Novotel Hyderabad Airport to enjoy in comfort. I personally didn’t find the biryani extra-ordinary. And the apricot dessert was so ridiculously sweet that a mere touch of it on your tongue would be enough, even for a dessert lover.
Shah Ghouse
Yet another extremely popular restaurant in Hyderabad, Shah Ghouse was our last stop on our Ramadan Food Tour. The glittering serial lights, choc-a-bloc honking traffic right in front of it, and mass of waiting patrons made for a chaotic first impression. While they are known to have one of the best Haleems in Hyderabad, unfortunately, they had run out of it when we arrived. So we went away empty-handed, though we already had a full tummy at this point.
Nayaab
This is another great place to visit on a Ramadan Food Walk in Hyderabad. They are known for their offal dishes, ranging from Paya Soup to Bheja and if you have brave eaters in your group, you can consider visiting. I love trying out new places and Paya Soup as well as Bheja aren’t new to me, however since my group wasn’t keen on visiting, we skipped it.
While walking from restaurant to restaurant, we would occasionally stop to taste a couple of pickles that were being sold by roadside uncles. We also tried some dahi vada (that wasn’t anything like the great stuff in Mumbai) or clicked a picture of a chaar-koni naan (square naan’).
Experiencing the diverse culture of Hyderabad during Ramadan just through all the noms was a mission that ultimate foodies would really enjoy. And you know what they say – there’s no better way to experience a city and culture than through its food!
You can also read about the best cafes in Manali, my Chandigarh food guide and restaurants for every budget in Toronto on my blog!
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Bye!
Such a wonderful blog