Not many people know that the idyllic town of Mandvi in Gujarat was once India’s busiest port and the center for sea and land trade. From here, access to Oman, the hinterland of Punjab and Sindh was easy, and its position on the spice route to Mozambique and Central Asia made it a strategically important place.
HOW TO TRAVEL TO MANDVI
What Pichavaram is to Pondicherry, Mandvi is to Bhuj – there’s not much to see there, but worth visiting if you have itchy feet. For those travelling to Gujarat for the Rann Utsav, a trip to Mandvi is usually on the cards if time permits. Mandvi is an hour’s drive away from the city of Bhuj – 56 km to be exact, which makes for a peaceful getaway for those who live in cities like Ahmedabad or Vadodara. The road to Mandvi is in pretty good condition, and even if you choose to travel from Bhuj to Mandvi by bus, it would take you 2.5 hours at max.
WHERE TO STAY IN MANDVI
There are close to three dozen hotels in Mandvi and choosing one wouldn’t be a problem, except for the exorbitant prices that the decent ones charge. If you’re looking to stay in a simple shack or hotel by the beachside, be prepared to shell out around Rs. 8000 per night for 2 people in February. A little further away from the beaches, underwhelming rooms and huts sell anywhere between Rs. 5000 – Rs. 7000. In India, finding budget accommodation anywhere isn’t a problem. If you don’t mind dingy rooms with questionable hygiene, you’ll easily find one priced over Rs. 1000.
We stopped in at a few hotels in Mandvi, called a couple of numbers on billboards – and were either appalled by the prices or disgusted by the rooms. After scouring the internet for a good hotel in Mandvi at a decent price, we finally found one – KRL Residency at Rs. 1500 a night, which the manager gave us at Rs. 1200. Being a newly constructed building, the room was wonderful and the service was kind, although it was nowhere near a beach.
Speaking of beaches, if you aren’t staying in one of the posh-ly priced hotels on the beach but want to enjoy the ocean in front of these properties, you’ll be charged Rs. 300 to set foot on the sand. For me, it was such a strange first impression of Mandvi because Goa, having beaches that are so much more beautiful, has no such rule!
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THINGS TO DO IN MANDVI
Watch craftsmen make ships
Being such an important spot for land and sea trade, the ship-building industry in Mandvi flourished in medieval times. Today, centuries later, huge, imposing wooden ships-in-the-making loom over the side of the road. They are built by craftsmen who are barely literate and have learned to make ships with no other knowledge than that passed down through the generations.
Visit Vijay Vilas Palace
In my opinion, the only reason one should visit Mandvi is to marvel at the gorgeous Vijay Vilas Palace. This stunning architectural marvel is built in Rajputana style and has an array of artifacts, photographs, and furniture on display. The palace is immaculately maintained and I spent a good 2 and a half hours wandering from room to room, imagining what it must have been like living here in such luxury, centuries ago. Intricately carved jaalis, balconies, murals and carvings, coloured glasswork and door panels, marble fountains and massive grounds make it a wondrous place to saunter around and daydream in.
Those who like Bollywood would recognize the palace featured in several movies, but if you don’t, I can bet that anyone who has an eye for beauty, art, and architecture would fall in love with Vijay Vilas Palace in Mandvi. They even have a 90-year-old elevator (that stopped working on the day before I visited). It’s a conspiracy! 😛
The entry fee is Rs. 30 per adult and Rs. 15 per child on weekdays, and Rs. 45 per person and Rs. 25 per child on weekdays. Camera gear is charged additionally, with mobile cameras charged at Rs. 25.
Visit Mazar-e-Noorani
Apart from the Vijay Vilas Palace and the beach, there aren’t many more places to see here. But if you’re really hunting for offbeat things to do in Mandvi, consider visiting this beautiful white marble mosque, belonging to the Bohra community. Photography isn’t permitted, but you can walk around and take in its tranquillity. I’d suggest visiting at sunrise or sunset, because, like the Swaminarayan Temple in Bhuj, this one changes color beautifully, too.
If you’re lucky, you’ll spot flamingos
Don’t get fooled by pictures showing flamingos on Mandvi Beach. These migratory birds fly from Australia to Mandvi in July. During the two days I spent in Mandvi, I didn’t see a single one either on the beach or in the river. However, I did spot one solitary flamingo in the white desert at Dolavira – and that totally made my day! In Mandvi, expect plenty of seagulls, cranes, and storks.
Spend an evening on Mandvi Beach
My advice – don’t go all the way to Mandvi for the beach. If you’re in the area, pop by for an hour or so… it really is nothing spectacular and has gained popularity through hype alone. The beach is quite dirty and crowded, offering animal rides, water sports, snacks of every kind, and even photographers taking pictures of you if you request one – pretty much what you’d expect at Juhu Beach, Mumbai! You’ll find dozens of horses, camels, and dogs (as well as horse poop, camel poop, and dog poop in abundance).
That’s about it from me! I was seriously considering whether to write about Mandvi at all, but I did in case you ever decide to go, this will hopefully help set expectations right. Look out for my next post which will be a travelogue to the White Desert in Gujarat – and no, it wasn’t the Rann of Kutch. More from me on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Byeee!
