History, adventure, wildlife – Junagadh has it all in and around itself. But at least in my circles, I have never heard of someone visiting Junagadh or even talking about it. While I read several travel blogs and magazines, I don’t recall ever reading about this city as a travel destination.
It is a frequently visited place though, due to its proximity to Sasan Gir, one of the most popular wildlife sanctuaries in India and the world; and to the Somnath Temple – considered one of India’s 12 most holy shrines. Junagadh also houses Girnar, an ancient hill that is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites of the Jain community. So, while it may come off as an ordinary city, it is quite captivating.
But perhaps the most fascinating thing here is the Uparkot Fort – a dominating structure that dates back to 4BC. The name ‘Junaagadh’ translates to ‘Old Fort.’ Interestingly, it’s etymology could have come from the word ‘Yonagadh,’ which translates to city of the Yona (Greeks), who were early inhabitants of the city.
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In India’s glorious past, this city was the capital of Junagadh, a princely state. The fact that it was ruled by various dynasties, such as the Mauryas, Chudasamas, and Mughals, makes it a fascinating place to explore because, as you can imagine, there’s quite a lot to see.
But let’s cut to more recent history. In the midst of the India-Pakistan partition in 1947, the princely states were given the choice to accede to either India or to Pakistan, taking into consideration their proximity to each country. Despite Junagadh’s lack of a direct border with Pakistan, the Nawab decided to align with Pakistan, arguing that the sea could serve as a connecting link. However, the people of Junagadh opposed this decision. Faced with mounting public pressure, the Nawab and his family fled to Pakistan and Junagadh opted to accede to India.
I spent a day and a half in Junagadh, and here’s everything I did.
Getting to Junagadh, Gujarat
Upon landing at Rajkot International Airport around 1 PM, we made a brief stop for lunch in Rajkot city, which was about 45 minutes away from the airport, before embarking on a 3.5-hour journey to Junagadh. Following a continuous journey since morning, we didn’t make any pit stops post-lunch, eager to reach our destination as soon as we could.
An interesting observation was the stark contrast in the landscape of this part of Gujarat compared to my previous visits to Ahmedabad and Surat. The surroundings appeared bleaker, dustier, and shrouded in ongoing construction activities. What I had anticipated to be a leisurely 3-hour drive along Gujarat’s renowned highways turned out to be quite the opposite. The road conditions were uneven, and we encountered significant traffic delays at certain points along the route.
Seeing a long red traffic congestion line on Google Maps prompted us to take a detour, and we opted for a longer route through single-lane roads through the picturesque villages and plains of Gujarat. Although the alternate route increased our travel time, I personally relished traversing through fields, plains, and quaint little towns as it provided a more authentic glimpse of the region, as compared to the monotonous highways that offer nothing really to see.
How to Travel around Junagadh
You will spot rickshaws and buses which would be suitable for short distances. For longer distances, consider booking a private cab. One day is enough to see everything there is in Junagad, but if you’d like to spend the entire day at the Fort, which is easily possible, given its size, you can spend 2 days here and do things at your own pace, while slotting in some more offbeat sights.
Where I stayed in Junagadh
The hotel in Junagadh was the only place I booked for our trip to Gujarat. Based on past experiences, I’ve discovered that securing accommodations for the first two nights of an impromptu trip can alleviate a lot of stress and frustration. You never know – the better hotels might be fully booked when you walk in, you might not feel too well upon arrival and won’t want to deal with the hassle of finding a place, or there could be flight/train delays.
In our case, after catching a morning flight and driving over 3 hours from Rajkot to Junagadh, It was comforting to have a destination confirmed when we reached the city at 6 PM. We then worked out the details for the rest of the trip later. When I was researching other hotels in the area, I did not find any mid-luxury executive-level accommodation. The reviews for most other resorts seemed terrible, except for Bellevue. Most travel blogs and articles seemed to recommend this hotel. It is quite possible that there is something better, but it has not received as much publicity.
Click Inn Hotel was a pristine, well-maintained hotel located within the same complex as the railway station and city bus stop. While some may find the sound of passing trains during the day and night disruptive, we found it to be quite charming and soothing. While we made a cup of coffee or worked at the work desk, we could look up and watch people wait for their trains board them or disembark.
I also appreciated the option of interconnected rooms, which made it feel like we were all in the same room and provided a sense of spaciousness. The showers were excellent, the toiletries were of high quality, and although the food wasn’t remarkable, it was definitely above average. Kudos to the staff for their exceptional hospitality. The only downside I would mention is that the restaurant staff can be a bit slow-moving. If you order a coffee, it will likely come after you’ve finished your breakfast.
In terms of location, the hotel boasted an enviable position. Situated adjacent to the train station, it also had the Sardar Patel Gate / Sardar Patel Darwaja right across the street. Upon going through the gate, the Mohabat Maqbara monument and a beautiful mosque stand merely a short 3-minute stroll away. A selection of restaurants can be found a brief drive away on one side, while a lively market area is situated a short drive away in the opposite direction.
Junagadh Travelogue and Things To Do
On our first evening, we checked into the Click Inn Hotel, rested, and freshened up. We had dinner at the hotel and didn’t feel like getting back in the car, so we just crossed the street to look at the Sardar Patel Gate illuminated post-dinner.
The next morning, we caught up with work and began our day of exploration. Our first stop was Uparkot Fort, but to get there, we had to navigate through the market and tiny lanes with houses, havelis, and shops on both sides. There is a paid parking area outside the fort, however, we just parked between two vehicles on the street in front and had no issues.
Right outside, I spotted a couple of carts selling tea and one cart that had an unusual-looking fruit that I’d never seen before. Upon inquiring, the seller told me it was pista. We purchased a pod and, seeing our stumped faces, he offered to cut it open for us – and we realized they was amonds! I have never seen almonds sold like this on street carts before!
First Stop – Uparkot Fort
The Uparkot Fort dates back to 319 BC, and just walking around something so ancient brings feelings of awe. You will need to buy an entry ticket here, which is Rs. 100 for Indian adults and Rs. 500 for foreigners. You will also have to pay a deposit of Rs. 100 for which you will get a wristband, and upon returning the band as you exit, you will be refunded the amount. The Fort is massive and houses everything from Buddhist caves dating back several millennia, to two stepwells. There are temples, a mosque, a granary, and viewpoints from where you can see the city from above as well as enjoy views of the Girnar Hills. It is one of the most interesting forts I’ve been to. The fort also has cycles to get around and a little train that takes you from one place to another.
It’s amazing to read about how the Uparkar Fort stood and still stands defiantly, despite over 15 seiges, one of which lasted 12 years. Back in 319, Chandragupta Maurya built the first structure of this fort, and it then stood as the seat of power for various dynasties, including the Greeks, for a brief period. Upon walking around, you will come across cannons that were used by the Turks in the Port of Diu to ward off the Portuguese. The Portuguese won, and as we know, Diu was one of their colonies for centuries – and the cannons, named Neelam and Manek, were brought here to Junagadh.
If the heat wasn’t so intense, I would have spent more time inside. There is also no food inside except for an ice cream store. As it neared 1:30, we started to get hungry and decided to leave, but not without having the best ice cream ever from the store. It was from a brand called Hocco – and I’d highly recommend it! I wish we got that ice crema in Goa – I’d ditch Magnum (my favourite brand of ice cream) for it.
If you love history, opt for a guided tour of the Fort as there are many stories you could learn. Cars are allowed inside the Fort, which I learned later.
Sardar Patel Darwaja
Like the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur or a clock tower in Dehradun, this is a spot you’ll keep passing by as you drive around Junagadh. There isn’t anything particular to see, except for the façade, which looks beautiful in the day as well as the night. Its quiet beauty seems to clash with the sight and sounds of the traffic in front of it. However, look through the doorways, and all you’ll see is rubble from the road that’s being constructed. This part of Gujarat, like Goa, is replete with construction projects everywhere you look, sadly.
Mohabat Maqbara
This is one of the prettiest monuments to see in Junagadh. Mohabat Maqbara is a beautiful mausoleum dedicated to Nawab Mahabat Khan II. The intricate cravings, grand domes, spires, and colourful stained glass windows alongside elegant jaali work make it a stunning site for photographs. It is a beautiful example of Indo-Ismalic architecture. There is a nominal entrance fee, and you can spend as little as 15 minutes here. I wished to visit during the day, but we did not have a free day, so we visited in the evening instead. Watching the sun set behind the monument and seeing the space light up was beautiful; however, if you get the chance, visit in the day time, when the stained glass casts beautiful hues on the floor. The pictures on Instagram are stunning.
Other Things To Do
Apart from a zoo, which I did not visit as I do not support zoos, there are also the Girnar Ashoka Rock Edicts that you can choose to visit. This is a collection of inscriptions made by Emperor Ashoka during his reign from 268 BCE to 232 BCE. These inscriptions are considered some of the most important among Ashoka’s edicts. They are inscribed in Brahmi script, which is believed to be the oldest script used in India.
Right beside Mohabat Maqbara is Jammi Mosque – a pretty green and yellow building that most tourists miss out on. While entry may not be open to all, you can admire it from the road or the Mohabat Maqbara complex next door. Lastly, you could visit Darbar Hall Museum to step into a time capsule! Here you’ll find clothes, weapons and artifacts, handlooks and even the Nawabs’ personal belongings.
Where to Eat in Junagadh
Anisbhai Samosawala
If you find yourself wandering through the Junagadh market, make sure to spot the unassuming stall of Anisbhai Samosawala, a local favorite. For a modest Rs. 40, you’ll receive a generous plate of 8-10 mini mutton samosas that are as addictive as they are flavorful. These bite-sized treats are a hit, disappearing from the stall almost as quickly as they are fried to perfection. I found them on Google Maps and couldn’t resist picking up Rs. 80 worth of these samosas to enjoy as a snack during our scenic drive to Gir.
Patel Restaurant
I went here upon reading about it on another blog. This restaurant offers South Indian, North Indian and Chin-dian (Indian Chinese) vegetarian cuisine. Upon arriving here, I was amused to find that there was a person on the balcony soliciting people on the street to come into the restaurant on the microphone – which seems to work well for them.
The restaurant is renowned for its signature dish, the Kumbhakaran Thali, which include 25 dishes and feeds 4-5 people. If you order it, be prepared to be the center of attention as it will arrive with pomp – carried by 4 staff members, with one of them dressed in the attire of Kumbhakaran, the brother of the evil Raavan from the epic Ramayana, who is known for his gigantic physique and appetite.
There is another restaurant just below Patel Restaurant which is nice, too. The picture below is a delicious thali from the restaurant, but I forgot the name of the place.
I hope you’re liking my series on Gujarat! Drop me a message on Facebook, X or Instagram if you’ve been to Junagadh and have done something cool that I may have missed. Bye for now!
