Hey there! I have SO MUCH to tell you about Pelling – a serene little town in the North Eastern State of Sikkim. While most travelers to Sikkim either choose to holiday in the capital city of Gangtok, or to spend 7-10 days visiting bits and parts of the whole state quickly, I did what I do best and chose to take it easy, explore one small city for a week and get the real feel of the place – you know what I mean? And boy, was it worth it! Let’s get straight to it, shall we?
WHAT’S GREAT ABOUT PELLING?
A picturesque little town surrounded by rolling hills makes it a refreshing getaway with perfect misty, cloudy weather – the stuff great Indian holidays are made of. While it is not commercial like Shimla and Manali in Himachal Pradesh are, or as cut-off as Tosh and Pulga, you will find it to be a refreshing change of pace for city dwellers always on the run, for a couples getaway, or for writers and artists who need peace, quiet and some natural beauty to get those creative juices flowing.
The highlight of Pelling is the view of the glittering peak of Mount Kanchenjunga in the distance – making for an awe-inspiring sight in the mornings, when the sun’s rays turn it into shades of peach and burnt orange – or in the evenings if you’re lucky and spot it at the exact moment when the clouds around the peak part for a minute.
HOW TO GET TO PELLING
With no railway station or nearby airport, reaching Pelling isn’t easy. If you’re on a budget, you would need to make your way to Geyzing, the largest town in the district (you can get here from Siliguri by bus/cab/shared cab), and switch buses/cabs for the Geyzing-Pelling leg of the journey which would take 5-6 hours. Lastly, you could rent a car from Siliguri, the furthest town of West Bengal for a 4-hour drive to Pelling or do what I did and go on a Kolkata-Sikkim road trip, a journey of 26 hours. I chose this because the flight tickets from one metro city to another (Mumbai-Kolkata) were much cheaper than that of flight tickets from Mumbai to Siliguri
THE BEST TIME TO VISIT PELLING
Like most of these mountainous states, the best time to visit if you’re travelling with family or with the intention to sightsee and explore – would be between Feb to July, while if you’d like to be enthralled by snowy landscapes, November to Jan is when you should visit Pelling. Visiting in the off-season will give you the benefit of availing good accommodation for cheap but be prepared for spells of rain and closed roads due to landslides. In this case, keep a few days spare for such unforeseen circumstances.
WHERE TO STAY IN PELLING
I hadn’t made any prior hotel bookings in Pelling. My initial plan was to stay somewhere for a night, get a feel of the place, and then get closer to or further away from the hustle-bustle. Turns out, there were absolutely no tourists when I visited in August, which is off-season. It was like the whole town was ours! We booked a lovely little hotel called Hotel Garuda right in the center of Pelling – and we chose this one because the façade was so pretty, it caught my attention straight away! Turns out, the rooms were super comfy and clean, the owners were wonderful (they even gave us a goodbye gift when we left) and I got a view of the (extremely quiet) main road from my balcony as well as of Mount Kanchenjunga from the bedside window. I loved that the entire place was family-run and that the family lived right there, below the hotel. Listening to their chatter, spotting the uncle watching Facebook videos every time I went downstairs, and having the daughter take our dinner orders… it was like living with a local family. While our spacious room is usually priced at Rs. 2000 per night, the owner offered to give it to us at Rs. 1100 (and we didn’t even ask or bargain for a discount!)
On our daily walks and drives around, we couldn’t help but notice how every single hotel in Pelling looked immaculately kept! Some, like ours, were built in the 1980s, but looked better than most buildings constructed 5 years ago! Safe, exceptionally clean, and with great bathrooms (criteria that’s very important to me), I can bet that you can walk into any of them and you will have a pleasant stay, especially since most of them have windows that open up to views of the mountains! Finding a budget hotel or homestay in Pelling would be easy here, so I recommend walking into a hotel over booking online. After spending 3 nights at Hotel Garuda, we spent a night at a luxury hotel in Pelling called Elgin Mount Pandim – more on that later!
HOW TO GET AROUND IN PELLING
As always, it is best if you have your own car so you can see Pelling at your own pace and head off the beaten track every once in a while. Trust me, you will want to! Pelling is a small town and you can get around by foot for the most part, however, to visit any of the attractions, you will need a vehicle. Cabs are available in plenty on a half-day and full-day basis. The half-day package would allow you to see 3-4 attractions from morning to afternoon, while the full-day package would allow you to see around 8 places from morning to evening. I split my sightseeing over 2-3 days and can’t imagine doing it all in one day.
WHERE TO EAT IN PELLING
Like hotels, the restaurants in Pelling are wonderful, too! From the kitchens to the floors, every corner of every restaurant was spotless (Sikkim, in general, places a high emphasis on cleanliness). The food everywhere was made fresh and upon order, and while we were alone at most restaurants, there would always be an attentive server (a family member of the management) around. The restaurant at Garuda Hotel was where we had most of our meals (do try their Poori Bhaji). Most of the restaurant menus are the same – with a mix of Indian, Ch-indian and Tibetan/Sikkim food.
You can also visit Big Bite and Evergreen Café for meals as well as Lotus Bakery for baked goodies. It is one of the only cafes around and has a very homely, rustic vibe. You can see the bakery from the café itself.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN PELLING
Picture a circle. The things to do in Pelling are scattered by the roadside, along the periphery of the circle. So no matter where you go, you can go ahead to the next monument/attraction, or go back to the last monument/attraction you saw. If you think you’d like to skip a monument and go to another, that wouldn’t be possible, as all the monuments are all on the circular route and you would have to cross one in order to proceed to the next. Here are the things to do in Pelling:
Sanga Choeling Monastery – Since Sikkim is highly influenced by Tibetan culture, you’ll have a couple of monasteries to visit in Pelling. This one is the oldest of them all, built in 1642, located among the clouds, high above the forests. The road going up to the Monastery is steep, and small cars struggle with the climb, at an incline of over 60 degrees. Still, many choose to walk this route. Deadly quiet, save for the flutter of the prayer flags and the occasional chant emanating from within, this small, but ornately painted monument cloaked with fog exudes peace while the views are a treat you to the senses!
Pelling Skywalk – Building ginormous statues in natural settings seems to be the trend these days, and here’s another such monument, right besides the Sangla Choeling Monastery. A massive statue of Chenrezig (Avalokiesvara), the most revered of all the Boddhisattvas can be seen from most places in Pelling, but it is only when you’re standing at the feet of the statue, do you get an idea how intricately carved this 137-foot statue is. There is a nominal entry fee to get in, and once you do, walk along the glass skywalk (which is quite a thrill for many since it is high above the ground), and go up the stairs to the statue, turning every prayer wheel as you make your way to the top. If it’s a clear day, you would get unrivaled views of the mountains from here, but sunny day or not, this is a must-visit place in Pelling.
Khecheopalri Lake – A beautiful lake, surrounded by lush foliage, Khecheopalri Lake is a holy place for Buddhists and Hindus, and the abundance of colourful prayer indicates just how sacred it is. The lake is believed to be the footprint of Lord Shiva by the Hindus and that of Goddess Tara by the Buddhists, and hence, even the fish in the lake are not caught or fished – and there are so many, that they seem to be struggling for space in the expansive lake. In fact, visitors are prohibited from bathing or picnicking here, or even feeding the fish anything other than soya chunks that can be bought at the parking lot. One can reach the lake by walking for 3-5 minutes until you come to the area where the boardwalk begins, or one can even trek up the hill for a better view. If you’re in good physical condition, this trek could take half an hour. If not, well, who knows when you’d reach?
Rabdentse Ruins – Personally one of my favourite places to see in Pelling, Rabdentse Ruins are what remains of what was once the second capital of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814, before it was destroyed by the invading Gurkha Army. Located next to the Bird Park, getting here involves a 30-minute trek of 2 kms through the wilderness (ensure you’re wearing good trekking shoes.) Fret not, though, the trek is relatively easy with no uphill or downhill climbs and the sounds of the birds and insects will have you spellbound during the journey. Unlike the Khecheopalri Trek, this was one I could complete.
Rabdentse Ruins have been declared as a monument of national importance by the Archaological Survey of India and is in excellent condition. The stone walls and floors of this ancient palace-cum-monastery indicate where the bedroom of the king, the guards room, courtyard and more must have once stood. The views from the Rabdentse Ruins are phenomenal. It is worth the walk… and if you know me, that’s saying something!
Rimbi Waterfalls – A small stunner of a waterfall, right by the road, it is enough to make you want to jump out of your car and take a photo or two! Much smaller than the Kanchenjunga Falls, however, as it is right on the road, it is convenient for you to visit and carry on. Due to its easy accessibility, it is most likely to be crowded during peak season, but it was ours for admiring when we stopped our car here.
Kanchenjunga Falls – I love falls located right on the road! No need to trek, and it offers so much beauty to passer-bys! Kanchenjunga Waterfall is one such place – and while you can see the Falls from the main road, you will get the full view of the second mightier Fall once you pay the entry fee and walk a few meters in. The resounding roar of the waterfalls in monsoons and the powerful gushing of the water is a reminder of how powerful Mother Nature is. The icy water comes straight from the mountains and many tourists who dare to get wet in the cold spray make their way right to the foot of the Falls. In the summer, the small tea vendor says, the flow of water is so gentle that kids play in the rocky pool at the foot of the falls, but in the monsoons, it is wise to admire the wild waterfall from a reasonable distance.
Pemyangtse Monastery – This 300 year old monastery is one of the most popular things to see in Pelling. A simple structure with a rich-looking facade, it houses a huge gold-plated statue of Guru Padmasambhava surrounded by candles and wall murals. Allow yourself some time here to marvel at the religious idols, antiques, paintings and more – the spiritual atmosphere will have you feeling at peace with yourself and the world.
There are other places to see in Pelling that I didn’t go to – namely Gangyap Hot Springs, Sinon Monastery and Phamrong Falls. I found that the stops I made were not only the most convenient, but the most beautiful of the lot. You saw all the pictures – wouldn’t you agree?
OTHER THINGS TO KNOW
Pelling is a fabulous place to work for a remote worker/freelancer, as there is excellent Airtel and Jio network. There are not many cafes to work out of, so you would need to work out of your hotel room. Also remember to carry sufficient cash with you – I don’t recall seeing a single ATM there.
I hope you found this Guide to Pelling, Sikkim, just what you needed to plan your holiday, backpacking trip or luxury stay. If you have any questions, I’m a message away on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.
Don’t forget to read about my adventures in Hampi, Jodhpur and Udvada! And stay tuned for my next blog post on Ravangla, Sikkim.
Bye!