Having grown up in Goa, the term “beach shacks” has always meant simple, makeshift structures on the sand – complete with plastic chairs, thatched roofs made of coconut palm leaves, and offering the experience of dining with the feel of warm sand under your feet. However, with the evolution of tourism and the influx of new residents, the concept of beach shacks in Goa has undergone a significant shift.
Today, these shacks are no longer limited to basic eateries dishing out fries, seafood, and beers by the dozen, but have transformed into chic seaside restaurants offering stunning ocean views, top-notch service, and artisanal cocktails. Yet, amidst this transformation, the original beach shacks of yesteryears – with their susceptibility to the fierce Goan monsoons threatening to blow their roofs away – still hold a certain nostalgic charm. But here, I’ll shed light on the beach-side shacks-cum-restaurants (for lack of a better term) that defy the seasonal closures and continue to welcome guests during the rainy season.
Beach Shacks Open in Goan Monsoons
Sea Pebble, Dona Paula
While beach shacks are closed during the rainy season, you don’t have to skip a meal by the ocean altogether. Sea Pebble is a well-known restaurant in Dona Paula, so when you’re in Panjim, you can trade the posh city restaurants for more relaxed beachy dining, especially since the area where most of the beach shacks are located (Calangute to Baga or Anjuna – Vagator) are over 40 minutes away.
Sea Pebble has a view of Dona Paula Jetty and of course, the sea in all its monsoon fury. What’s nice about this restaurant is that it has plastic blinds all around and once it starts raining, the staff quickly pull down the blinds – a great option in Goa, where it is sunny for a few days (or few hours) and rainy for the next few.
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The food is borderline average and while I only tried a handful of dishes, I preferred the Goan food – the rissois and stuffed crabs were yummy! Most of the crowd here are tourists, so Indian items like biryani and tandoori chicken are good picks. It’s important to note that there are two flights of stairs to descend to get to the restaurant; keep that in mind if you have elderly people dining with you.
Yazu, Sinquerim
One of the most popular beach restaurants on this commercial beach belt of Baga – Calangute – Candolim – Sinquerim, Yazu stands out as one of the premier Pan Asian beach restaurants in Goa. Located at Marquis Beach Resort and overlooking the ocean, Yazu offers an array of food from around Asia on their 25-page menu – sushi, sashimi, nigiri, ceviche, poke bowls, dim sum, baos, donburi, curries, rice, and noodle-based-dishes.
The flavour and presentation of the food paired with amazing cocktails and a killer view make Yazu a great sundowner spot.
Tereza Beach House, Nerul
Picture this: You’re sitting outdoors, with a view of the sea, gazing at the sunset, cocktail in hand, enjoying fresh seafood. But there’s no loud Bollywood music, hawkers, grimy tables, and noisy tourists. Bliss, right? Tereza Beach House is a picturesque restaurant in Nerul that beautifully balances casual dining with a touch of class.
The food? Where to begin? How does wolfing down grilled figs and goat cheese sound? Perhaps a vibrant mezze platter or Memphis-style smoked pork ribs with mustard BBQ sauce – both among the top dishes I tried. To be honest, it was hard to pick items with dishes like Lamb Ragout Pappardelle, Truffle Chicken Liver Pate, and Pumpkin Borani.
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The Gnocchi, with parmesan and goat milk ricotta dumplings, peas, asparagus, and white cream was sublime, but if you prefer to stick to Indian food, try the Pandi Fry Kulcha comes stuffed Coorgi style spicy pork, placed atop yummy raw mango chutney. From among the desserts, try the Machhiato Brulee – a real work of art in both flavour and texture. The Classic Lemon Meringue Cake was interesting, and I’d suggest skipping the Biscoff Cheesecake as there are better options to choose from.
The cocktails looked beautiful, and from my cocktail-drinking friends, I hear that the drinks were heady (because no one likes it when they skimp on the alcohol, am I right?).
Laval Aerosa, Baga
As I type this, I’ve just returned from the launch of Laval Aerosa – a beautiful bohemian-meets-upscale restaurant-cum-club in a cramped little labe in Baga. The interiors at Laval Aerosa could upstage any of the restaurants on this list – with an air-conditioned section, beautiful textural accents from the roof to walls to flooring and a multi-tier seating that lets you sit at a vantage point to admire the sunset in comfort, lounge in a jacuzzi one level below or sit out on the beach if the weather is pleasant.
Food-wise, I was quite impressed with Laval Aeross’s menu – spanning Asian, Indian and Continental. The service was pleasant and the food looked and tasted great. To be fair, today was launch day, and I shall visit again soon to update you on whether it is still as good.
Brittos, Baga
Brittos is an institution and is a restaurant my family would go to a couple of times a year in the past. As Baga became what it sadly is today, we stopped venturing out to the area. It is open during the monsoons, as it has been since 1965 – and it has great Goan dishes, especially seafood. Pair it with a chilled beer, whiskey or lime soda and you’re good to go!
Souza Lobo, Baga
A landmark on Calangute Beach since it opened its doors in 1932, Souza Lobo is a charming, old restaurant offering perhaps the best view of Calangute Beach to the throngs of tourists it attracts. Choose to sit in the open-air or indoor section and order platefuls of fresh Goan and Continental-style seafood.
Whether you’re looking for a romantic candlelight dinner or a lunch with friends and family – you won’t be disappointed. Unless of course, you have been a long-time customer, in which case you will notice the smaller portion sizes and changes in the food. I guess that’s understandable – the staff and cooks change over the decades as does inflation and other factors. If you are a Goan, keep in mind that beach shacks serving Goan food usually tweak it to suit tourists’ palates – so don’t expect absolute authenticity.
St. Anthony’s Beach Shack, Baga
St Anthony’s is one of the most popular beach shacks in Assagao, and I’d say that this one is perhaps the closest to what a beach shack is / should be – even though it has had several upgrades over the years. It is located on Baga Beach and offers Goan delicacies, tandoori items, and Italian dishes. The drinks are cheap and the vibe is casual and simple, making this an unpretentious spot to visit for a lazy lunch or sundowner, During the evenings, they usually have karaoke – and if you don’t dare to sing, or detest badly wailed Bollywood love songs, I’d suggest skipping it for the sake of your earbuds and sanity.
There are dozens of beach shacks and restaurants in Goa that are open during the monsoons. On my blog, I only talk about places I’ve visited and would recommend – so I may will add to this list as time goes by. In case you have a favourite that I haven’t mentioned, reach out to me and I’ll try my best to make a visit. Bye!
If you like visiting coastal towns, you may like to read my blog posts on Galle in Sri Lanka, as well as Kochi in Kerala.
