Think Rishikesh and what comes to mind? For me, it had always been river rafting, yoga retreats, and The Beatles connection. However, during my brief two-night stay, I learned that Rishikesh in Uttarakhand has much more to offer than just that. While it may not be the most picturesque destination in India, it certainly made up for it in spirituality and culture steeped in mythology
Rishikesh – All You Need To Know
Rishikesh, revered as one of the holiest cities in India, gained international fame when The Beatles, at the pinnacle of their stardom, ventured to India in search of inner peace. The fact that they came for a Transcendental Meditation Course by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi and left on a sour note before completing the course, did not deter the city from grabbing hold of the opportunity and milking this marketing opportunity for all its worth, even today, over 50 years later. Like the ‘Fab Four,’ the city still attracts Westerners embracing a simpler lifestyle, epitomized by their attire of baggy pants, faded vests, slippers and backpacks.
Beatles aside, Rishikesh is called the gateway to the Himalayas and invites saints and seekers to find solace along the sacred banks of the Ganges, nestled in the lap of the majestic Himalayan mountains. Its strong emphasis on spirituality means that non-vegetarian food and alcohol are nowhere to be found, aligning with its puritanical ethos. Catering to Hindu pilgrims, the city’s proximity to the revered pilgrimage site of Haridwar ensures a steady stream of visitors seeking spiritual fulfillment.
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Replete with temples and ashrams, Rishikesh is a prominent hub for yoga and meditation in India. As you navigate through the city’s Eastern and Western sides, one on either side of the river, (more on that below), you’ll find that the Eastern side bustles with activity, while the Western side exudes a more serene ambiance, and is more popular among yoga enthusiasts. With its labyrinth of grimy, narrow walkways and uphill climbs, exploring Rishikesh offers an adventurous endeavor. ideally, 3-7 days would allow for thorough exploration, but even a brief visit like mine will let you capture the city’s mystique and spiritual allure. Rishikesh, with its spiritual significance and rugged charm, beckons all to seek solace in its tranquil embrace. Given the unique history and culture of this holy city, I’d recommend you pack plenty of modest clothing.
Getting to Rishikesh:
I made the journey to Rishikesh from Dehradun by car, covering a distance of 44 km in just over an hour. For those traveling by air, the closest airport is located in Dehradun, offering convenient bus, train, or cab connections to Rishikesh.
Another option is to hop on a bus from Dehradun, Dharamsala, or other locations within Uttarakhand, with even routes from Delhi available (a 13-hour trip). Upon arriving at the bus station, a quick rickshaw ride will take you to the heart of the city. Train travel is also a viable choice for reaching Rishikesh, with the city serving as a favored weekend retreat from Delhi, alongside destinations like Manali and Kasol.
Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula:
Rishikesh finds itself divided by the majestic Ganga River, with two primary areas emerging: Ram Jhula (on the west) and Laxman Jhula (on the east). These names also belong to the two iconic suspension bridges that stretch across the river, seamlessly connecting the divide. While Laxman Jhula tends to attract more tourists with its hipster vibe, cafes, and activities, it is definitely worth exploring both areas. These areas and another area called Tapovan typically make up the tourist experience in Rishikesh. If you want to be close to the action, yet far enough to have peace and quiet, Tapovan is for you.
I stayed at Laxman Jhula and walked/rode around a fair bit – yes, I ditched the car and hired a bike as I quickly found the narrow lanes and steep climbs to be cumbersome to navigate. This part of the city is dotted with tattoo studios, souvenir shops, trendy cafes, yoga centers, fashion boutiques, and modern graffiti – a Goa-like vibe in the mountains, although without the presence of alcohol and with a unique spiritual twist.
Where to stay in Rishikesh
During my visit to Rishikesh, I came across several accommodation options, including hostels, Airbnbs, and hotels scattered around the city. However, I would not recommend cheap options unless you are on a strict budget. Most of them require navigating uphill or downhill, are lacking in cleanliness, or are just plain dingy. It’s worth spending a bit more to ensure a comfortable stay. This is true for both, the Laxman Jhula and the Ram Jhula areas.
As I was searching for a hotel with a river view, I had a tough time finding one that met my requirements. After some exploration and visiting some very shady places, I was tired and annoyed. First of all, finding parking space in Rishikesh is very difficult. So if you’re driving, you’ll have to park somewhere far, walk uphill or downhill to your hotel, return to the car, and carry the bags up again. This is not the case if you opt to stay at one of the many luxury hotels around. Lemon Tree, for example, was Rs. 15,000 a night and offered a great view, parking and of course, luxury.
I stumbled across The Classio by DHL Hotels and among all the hotels I saw, it was the best one at my price point. While it cost Rs. 4,000 per night (inclusive of breakfast), it was worth every penny. The hotel – though a typical executive business type – was equipped with basic amenities such as tea/coffee, toiletries, and towels. The dinner buffet offered an exceptional value for the price. The staff were pleasant and welcoming too.
Alternatively, Rishikesh offers an opportunity to stay at an ashram, where you can embrace a disciplined routine of yoga, set mealtimes, and prayer.
Things to do in Rishikesh
Visit The Beatles Ashram
If you’re wondering why an ashram in a protected forest zone is named after a rock band that didn’t complete their medication course, and placed serious allegations about their guru, Maharishi Mahesh Yogi – is named after them, I wouldn’t know what to tell you. But a visit to The Beatles Ashram is one of the most popular things to do in Rishikesh. This historic ashram played host to the Beatles, who sought solace, meditation, and creative inspiration here. You can explore the very spaces they inhabited, meditated in, dined in, showered in, and it is the closest many of us will get to the band. Though time has taken a toll on the ashram, dedicated Beatles fans have enlivened the site with vibrant graffiti, which is what draws most of the crowd – Instagram photos, and all that!
The entry fee to the Ashram, located in the Rajaji National Park, is quite steep for walking through a rundown ashram. Foreigners will have to cough up Rs. 600 and Indians, Rs. 200. It is said that The Beatles wrote some of their best work after visiting Rishikesh and studying meditation. But eventually, the guru moved to the Netherlands, and the group disbanded.
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Witness the Ganga Arti at Triveni Ghat
Ganga aartis, beautifully orchestrated evening prayers to the sacred river Ganga, are carried out at various locations along its length in India, each holding its significance in Hindu mythology. One such place is Triveni Ghat, where the river splits into three tributaries, adding to its profound spiritual aura.
Triveni Ghat is not just a picturesque river bank, but also a revered destination where one can partake in prayers, take a purifying dip in the holy waters, and immerse themselves in the mesmerizing arti ceremony. Conducted by Hindu priests, this evening ritual is a sight to behold as they chant and offer their prayers, holding aloft large oil lamps that illuminate the surroundings.
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While the arti is scheduled to commence at 6 PM, during my visit, it began closer to 7 PM. To secure a good seat, I’d suggest getting there between 5-5:30 PM, as the crowds start to gather by then. However, be aware that if you end up with a seat at the back, your view might be obstructed by other attendees or individuals constantly walking in between you and the arti activities. Many visitors seemed more interested in taking photos rather than fully experiencing and appreciating the spiritual atmosphere and rituals, which does have an impact on the overall vibe of the ceremony at Triveni Ghat.
Nevertheless, I recommend finding a suitable spot, ignoring distractions, and focusing on the dedicated pandits as they perform the arti. The spiritual essence is undeniably palpable!
Learn Yoga
Staying in Rishikesh for a week or longer? You’ll discover that it’s the perfect destination for learning yoga. Numerous establishments offer yoga classes, where you can either enroll for a course or simply join a session by walking in at the time of the class without prior registration. Opting for longer-duration courses can also be cost-effective. It is quite common for yoga enthusiasts to visit Rishikesh specifically for teacher training programs – given how fitness and health is a growing industry today, being a yoga teacher is a great career option – not to mention, a viable way for digital nomads to teach and earn while they travel.
Experience the thrill of river rafting
Although I didn’t personally partake in river rafting during my visit, I had seen fun photos and videos of the river’s mighty rapids. However, when I arrived in March, it meandered gently along, which seemed less exhilarating compared to the white water rafting images I had seen. Nonetheless, I couldn’t help but notice that many adventurous individuals still went on river rafting expeditions. It was nice to watch their excitement from afar and listen to the laughs echoing through the many riverside cafes that offer river views, as they splashed into the water.
Explore Cafes
Rishikesh boasts a plethora of cafes, ranging from cozy little nooks to more spacious establishments. While most of the cuisine is vegetarian, you’ll find a diverse range of international flavors including Israeli, American, and Italian, among others. Cafes and restaurants are abundant near the Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula areas, although my experience was primarily on the Laxman Jhula side.
While I always suggest trying local restaurants and cuisines to better immerse oneself in a new place, in Rishikesh, I suggest it for a different reason – the cafes and restaurants offer food that is deeply underwhelming. Cafe Nosh is a restaurant with a good vew and below average food. The Beatles Café rides on the popularity of the band, even though the group never visited it. It offers one of the best views, but the food and theme did not live up to my expectations. In fact, I found that the popular cafes in the area fell short in terms of culinary appeal. For digital nomads in search of a workspace, I loved Honey Hut. I’ve also visited the Honey Hut in Shimla and was impressed by their all-honey menu.
Other things to do in Rishikesh
If you have a penchant for trekking, there are several treks to embark on and a couple of waterfalls to explore. You can go temple-hopping, and make a day trip to Haridwar, a few kilometers away
So, if you’re seeking a retreat to contemplate life, relax, and attain spiritual enlightenment, Rishikesh has all this and more to offer, provided you make the right choices. The mountains, the rushing river, the warm sun against the crisp, cool air, and the bustling vibe all contribute to a distinctive experience unlike anywhere else in the country.
